Sunday, 10 December 2023

Gironde Loop


Su had booked a place to run the Medoc Marathon on the 9th September, but due to a recurrent knee injury had not been able to train sufficiently and we had reluctantly decided not to go, although we had tickets to some of the surrounding events. and a booking for our camper van on the campsite.

However, our good friends Mark Bernstein and his partner Linda were visiting Bordeaux for a conference, from Cambridge, USA. The conference was in the first part of the week after the Marathon, and they would be free to explore Bordeaux's culinary delights thereafter.

It seemed too good an opportunity.  We caught a ferry across, a train to Paris, cycled across Paris and got a TGV down to Bordeaux.  We cycled to a campsite on the outskirts of Bordeaux that night then on to Pauillac the next day, where we already had a booking on the crowded campsite.  We joined in the Marathon party for a couple of days, then cycled on round the Gironde estuary, getting back late in the following week to take a Air B&B apartment to spend a long weekend with Mark and Linda.

We were camping.

We were riding:

  • Hugh - Dawes Super Galaxy
  • Su - Roberts Audax



Between 5th and 14th September 2017

Total Distance 296 km

Climbed and Descended 1502m


Sept 6th: Train from Le Havre to Bordeaux then cycle to Campsite at Bruges

 We caught an overnight ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre arriving at 8:30 am.  Train to Paris St Lazare then a quick cycle across Paris to Paris Montparnasse to catch the TGV to Bordeaux.

Contrary to frequently repeated advice, it is possible to book fully assembled bikes onto some TGVs and we had done this.  Unfortunately by time we had found the carriage with the bike spaces the spaces were already full of passengers luggage,   We made ourselves somewhat unpopular by shouting to the carriage in French that we would be removing their bags to put our bikes in the places we had paid for!  In the end they were still balancing on a fair number of suitcases, but we made it,

From Bordeaux we had a short ride to a campsite on a lake just on the outskirts,  The ride was easy with excellent cycle lanes and we arrived early evening.




Distance cycled 13.3km from Bordeaux Gare de St Jean



Sept 7th - Bruges to Pauillac

Along the Medoc wine trail through Margaux, St Julian and into Pauillac where we had already booked a place on the much oversubscribed  "Les Gaberys" campsite for the Marathon.




Distance 50 km

Sept 8th, 9th, 10th Pauillac for the Medoc Marathon

The Medoc Marathon is a massive party for drinkers with a running problem. 

On the Friday day before the Marathon everyone turns up and has a five course meal and a party ("Mille pates") till after midnight and there is dancing on tables.  

At seven o'clock the on Sunday morning everyone arrives to parade their "defuse" (fancy dress) and then the Marathon sets off  - but it's not far to go to Chateau Rothschild for the first of around 25 degustations en route.   The final few "rest stations" on the course reproduce the French Meal (which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site!), providing oysters and white wine at one, then steak and claret at the next, then the cheese course, (more claret), then some ice cream dessert at the next (with a little Sauterns of course) and finally a Disco with sparking wine, where people wait to attempt to get the honour of being the *last* person cross the line within the 6.5 hour cut-off. This person will win their weight in wine!

On the night of teh marathon there is a massive party on the quay, with a stage and a band and dancing and claret at €1 per cup and BBQ provided by the Rugby club.  Dancing till past midnight.

On teh Sunday everyone goes for a 10km walk - just to stretch the legs, and the walk takes then through a few vineyards en the way - where there is more tasting to be done, and the walk finishes in a massive marquee for lunch.  There is a band, and guess what - more drinking and partying and dancing!

Su has done this Marathon many times before and was gutted not to be taking part - but at least we were able to use our tickets to join in the partying and the walk.


There is a reason for the Marathon's Logo



On our campsite "the morning after".


Partying after the Sunday Morning Walk

Wine comes literally by the barrel. Help yourself.


A few pictures from Other Years










Sept 11th: Pauillac to Soulac

 Out along the estuary through St Estephe,.  To the North we crossed to the Atlantic and pick up teh Velodosie (EV1) - so now we are in space we have done before..

Nearly Empty seaside campsite (post Rentré)

High's Dawes in travelling mode



Distance 61.7 km

12th Sept Soulac to Montagne Sur Gironde

 The ferry across the estuary only goes every couple of hours post rentrĂ©, so we needed to make a well timed getaway and it was a fast ride up to Le Verdon to catch the ferry to Royan.


It was a pleasant ride back down the estuary.  The campsite at Montagne was rather difficult to reach at the top of a cliff - which was a bit tiresome at the end of the day, but afforded charming views

Cycling past "carrelets"on the estuary


On Campsite at Montagne Sur Gironde


View from the Campsite



Distance 60.2 km


13th Sept: Montagne sur Gironde to Blaye

 Today's ride ended at Blaye - and teh campsite is in teh citadel itself.  Su has run the Blaye Marathon a few years ago, so it was nice to come back here when it was a bit quieter.


On site at Blaye Citadel


Views from the campsite




Distance 52 km.

Gironde Loop

Su had booked a place to run the Medoc Marathon on the 9th September, but due to a recurrent knee injury had not been able to train sufficie...